A Glimpse into the Fabrics — Alyssa Gorman, BFA Textiles ’28
For my final blog post of my Around the World in 80 Fabrics Fellowship, I wanted to share some of the incredible stories behind the fabrics I worked with this summer. Between working remotely on the Pop-Up Exhibition for Carroll’s new book and handling the pieces in person, there are some stories which have resonated the most with me during this internship. I hope you’ll take a look into some of these fabrics and the cultural heritage surrounding them! All the information and stories I’ve included can be found in more detail on the Around the World in 80 Fabrics website and are linked.
I have to start with the fabric made from beetle wings. It is one of my favorites and it’s so incredibly beautiful and unique. This fabric originates from the Jewel Beetle (Stenocera aequisignata). Beetle wing elytras are ethically sourced in Thailand as a food source byproduct and incorporated directly into the textile. Unfortunately, the use of Beetle wings in Thai craftsmanship is a traditional arts form which is disappearing. The beetle wing fabric in ATW80F’s collection was made by artist and designer Fa Wuthigrai Siriphon.
This fabric was one of my favorites to see in person because the piece is so large and colorful. The wool used to make this fabric was sheared from very special sheep. On North Ronaldsay island, there are a group of Scottish sheep that eat primarily seaweed. These sheep have an adapted gut microbiome to support their diet, and are confined to an area of the shore by a large dyke. Each year, the North Ronaldsay Sheep Festival takes place to rebuild the historic dyke and conserve this sheep breed.
In the collection there are many pieces woven by the Centro de Textiles Tradicionales del Cusco. Led by Nilda Callenaupa Alvarez, the cooperative achieves the most beautiful naturally dyed pieces. I had the opportunity to meet Nilda herself at the International Folk Art Market. Nilda’s organization empowers women weavers by preserving traditional weaving methods in the Cusco region.
4. Algix
I absolutely love learning about the different companies creating bio-based textiles and materials. Bloom creates products made of algae and seaweed with the intention of moving toward a circular economy. Algae is harvested and transformed into a rubber which can replace petroleum based fabrics in shoe soles and more.
5. Simplifyber
Another company using bio-based methods to create fabrics, Simplifyber starts as a cellulose liquid. Simplifyber materials can be created additively, and are recyclable. Super awesome!!
These are just five examples of fabrics in the ATW80F Collection. With 250+ pieces, the opportunity for exploration of petroleum free fabric alternatives is endless. I’ve loved my time at Around the World in 80 Fabrics, and I’m leaving with soooo much inspiration for my own plastic free design practice. I have so much gratitude to Carroll and Lesli for bringing me further into this world of sustainability. And of course, thank you to the Maharam fellowship for allowing me to engage in this internship opportunity.